I have used a 2 or 3 mm seed bead in the stringing material color between the pearls and I like the effect - looks very close to a knot and the best thing is that each "knot" matches in size. The smaller size is better if your stringing material can go thru it, but I usually don't care and go with the 3 mm (or even a 4 mm) simply cuz it is easier.

I agree that you don't need to knot your Swarovski pearls, but I understand wanting them to look hand-knotted.

There are fiddly ways to knot, and there's the "cheater's way" to knot. I found a video with the cheater's way and found out that it worked just fine. It's also much faster than messing with beading awls or tweezers.

About the thread/wire, what I use depends on the size/weight of the bead. I use a beading wire with heavier beads (8 mm or larger) because they need extra support.

For smaller beads or pearls, I prefer Nymo if I'm going to use a thread. I had problems with Superlon, too. I used Thread Heaven and I wasn't using a very long piece of thread. The more beads I strung, the more frayed the thread became just from the repeated sliding of beads over the thread. I had to start over from scratch. I used Nymo that time, and it worked beautifully. Nymo works well doubled and knotted.

My general preference for stringing and bead weaving is Fireline.

I used Fireline for a strand of button pearls I restrung for a friend's grand-daughter. Fireline can be doubled for the knotted effect, and with Fireline you know that the necklace is going to be both durable and flexible for a long time (so it will hold up to being tugged on by a little girl). Fireline is easy to work with and doesn't add weight to the finished project.

I can make a suggestion about the type of thread, if that's what you want to know. Aside from using Fireline for most of my beadwork, for something like pearls - even if they are glass - I like something more like the thread you would find in a strand of pearls. My favorite brands are Silamide (I like the weight and texture) or a size D Nymo, and both come in colors. Be sure to use a little Thread Heaven when you start out, and it will make the job of stringing easier.

If you're using a heavier weight pearl, a size 8 mm or larger, you might want to use Soft Flex or Soft Touch. Both will support the weight better, and you can finish off easily.

A few months ago, I tried stringing small glass pearls with Superlon. I didn't use enough Thread Heaven, so I started having problems with fraying. I'm not saying it was the Superlon. More likely, it was my not using the thread correctly.

I just read about a trick for knotting pearls that I'm going to try. Using your beading thread doubled; thread both strands through each pearl, but use one strand as the main support thread, and use the other strand to make half-hitch knots between the pearls (always use the same thread for knotting and tie knots in the same direction). You might want to use two different needles so you don't confuse the threads. It sounds like a great solution - I plan to give it a try.

I can't knot pearls worth a flip. Last year, I gave up on trying to knot around tweezers or upholstery needles - I never could get the knots close enough. I used what was called the "cheater's method". I doubled the thread and tied a regular knot between each pearl with the two strands.

I use Beadalon 7 Strand .018 wire with all of my Swarovski Pearls and it works just fine. No problems at all.

Knotting is pretty easy! See if you can find a tutorial. Even though it doesn't matter with Swarovski pearls - it opens up some great design options. I learned in about 5min and taught my 12 year old. I know you can do it. (my opinion since your question was already answered!)

26 gauge for small dangling beads and 24 gauge for small beads when linking together... like in a bracelet. Half hard sterling silver wire resists tool marks more than dead soft, however, dead soft is easier to wrap the tops of dangling beads.

I agree that 22 guage is the best, it holds the shape & is easy to work with. Use practice wire to learn the technique

I actually use 26 gauge. Usually half hard. I find that it doesn't overpower small beads, but is still very strong and doesn't distort when tugged.

I like using 22 gauge or 24 gauge depending on hole size. Pearls and other small hole stones will probably need 24 gauge. Most other beads the 22 gauge will be sturdy enough to hold but fine enough so it's not overbearing for the bead itself.
22 gauge is the best all around size in my opinion.

Hi Sara,
I use 18 or 20 gauge wire for this purpose. I find it easy to work with and it will keep it's shape. I use dead soft and run it between some polishing cloth before working with it to naturaly harden the wire.
Lori Lynch - wwwbejeweledbylori.com

Any natural uncoated copper wire (such as inside electrical cables) can be used. It is very shiny at first but with time, it oxidizes to look very antiqued.

Some shades of brown are identical to antique copper. You have to look at the permanently colored copper wires.

Soft flex has a metallic copper wire. I have used it with antique and bright copper with good results.

After choosing chains with links that are at least 4 mm, the rest is personal preference. There are many styles of chains to choose from. Take your time and think about what you want the bracelet to "say" (what kind of charms or beads you'll be using) or think about who you are making the bracelet for.

You will definetely need plyers and a place to work. Also, you will need wire/string, and of course BEADS, BEADS, AND MORE BEADS!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use any cable or curb chain that is at least 4mm. This gives you freedom of movement when attaching your charms. You can choose fancy link designs, but they tend to overpower smaller charms. Make sure to use larger charms if you want to use a large link size for a chunky look!