Delicas are more of a size *11 and they are a cylinder bead, not rounded like seed beads. Delicas also have larger holes than the average seed bead which make them perfect for multiple passes. HTH.

I find that I use the Toho beads more than the Miyuki . . . they are less expensive yet have the quality and consistancy of the Japanese made seed beads. Toho beads are also somewhat larger than the Miyuki which helps with my challenged vision. Miyuki's tend to be more cylindrical in shape rather than round . . . which can be more or less desireable depending on your design.

opaque have a flat finish, whereas opaque Ab have a shiny finish

Seed Beads are round, Delicas are small tubelur beads

A 10 is larger than an 11. The smaller the number the bigger the bead.

Kristen, if you are making a multi-strand bracelet and the other 2 strands are using beading wire then you can use the beading wire for your seed bead strand. I would use 21-strand beading wire to give your bracelet flexibility.

Yes they can and more times than you would think. I use Nymo B as well. It's great when you need to go through many times. You can test this out by just running your threaded needle through you 11/0 seed bead over and over and count the times. Also, use a size 12 needle or even smaller if necessary.

There are special needles made just for beading, with very narrow eyes that slip through the bead's holes easily. You can find them in hobby and sewing stores in packets of four, but they're extremely expensive that way -- it's much more economical to buy them in packages of 25 or more from bead supply specialists.

I find that size 10 needles work for most everything I do, but once in awhile I need the smaller size 12s. I've never had to go down any smaller than that, even for size 15-0 beads.

And may I recommend beeswax to condition your thread and make it easier to thread these tiny needles? Personally, I like plain, natural beeswax much better than the synthetic thread conditioners... but it can be hard to find. In sewing stores, you'll often see a whitish material labeled beeswax, but it's not -- it's that slippery synthetic stuff. Real beeswax is light golden brown.

Hope this is helpful!

If I were you I would consider choosing a mikuki "fringe" bead rather than the seed bead. These have the hole at one end so they are properly weighted and your beading string is less visible. With a seed bead, the tendency is for the bead to sit 'wonky' at the end of the bugle, and you have a less even line.

It is important, also, to use a thread such as firewire, which does not stretch, This way you can leave a little looseness in the tension so that the fringe beads will seem to shimmer, but you need not worry that they will begin to hang too low and expose the thread.

Good luck with your project!

Some jump rings are "clsoed", these are soldered shut and can not be opened with pliers. If you are using "open" jump rings, you might not be opening them properly. When opening jump rings, never pull the ring open, always twist the ends apart. If you're marring the surface of the rings, be sure you're using smooth jawed pliers, not serrated. Hope that helps.