It depends on the type of color change. If the process is diffusion then yes because that means it is just a coating. I had some large semi precious stones that had cost $100 or more per stone where I was not told that there was color enhancement and even putting it in alcohol changed the color. One stone melted into a glob when it was introduced to a steamer. But if the stones are heated to cause color change, then the change is permanent. check to see if you can see a difference on the edges. Use a loupe and ask the seller what the story is. Coral is almost always dyed but again it depends on the type of dye. Other stones are tanzanite (it gets blue when it is heated otherwise it is a muddy brown, topaz are almost all heated but a few are diffused, sapphires, rubies, emeralds, spinels, garnets (especially the tsavorite and other unusual ones) are heated. You can use the heated stones just like a natural stone. It should be a lot cheaper however. It depends on what kind of piece I am making whether I use these. If I am doing beading with seed beads and crystals, I probably won't use natural stones, the same way I don't use oriental pearls and 14Kt findings. I am experimenting with stuff to paint a gold design on beads or silver. Anything the keeps the jewelry classy and hi line but not so expensive it is hard to sell.

Well, I do a lot of metal work and tumble polish my pieces. I purchased some rose quartz beads, not knowing it was dyed (from another company, not artbeads). I tumble polished the bracelet I made with them and the color faded completely, went from a pretty pink to an opaque whitish color...I definitely do NOT recommend tumbling dyed gemstones. I've not used those beads again, but I notice they do seem faded a bit compared to when I first purchased them. I don't actually know why anyone would buy dyed gemstones.

This is my first experience with dyed beads and I noticed as I was stringing them the dye was coming off on my fingers. I will not be buying anymore dyed beads. (Hope it doesn't rub of on my neck line when I wear the beads.)

I have had Coral that was dyed come off onto my skin. Other dyed stones have faded. I am now not buying anything that I know is dyed. My customers mostly want to see the real colour and know that it isn't dyed. I appreciate that Artbeads does say if something is dyed. I hope that they will do this in every case as long as they know.

First you need to determine if you are stringing (stranded wire products like SoftFlex) or stitching (thread products like Fireline).

If you are stringing, use a wire type product like Zamba Pro, Softflex, SoftTouch, Beadalon, etc. You need to pay attention to 2 things.
1. Size (diameter) and
2. Number of strands.

The two measurements are fairly independent of each other but choosing the incorrect size or strength can lead to disaster.

Size: The size (.010, .012, .014....024 or superfine, fine, medium, and heavy) refer to the thickness or diameter of the wire bundle. The diameter determines the size of the bead, crystal, etc that will fit.

.014/.015 and ..018/019 are fairly generic sizes and can be used for most materials. Use the size appropriate for the bead, crystal or gemstone. With a 4 mm bicone, you can use just about any thickness except maybe .024.

Just as important and and the frequent cause of breakage is the number of strands. This determines strength and also how drapeable a the wire will be.

The more strands, the more drapeable (less likely to permanently kink).

With crystals, you want strong as everything is subject to fraying. I"d use 49 strands, but you could drop and use the 19 or 21 strands (depending on brand) if it's a piece that isn't designed to last forever. 7 strands will break.

It's important to note that you can use a medium wire (.019) has 7, 21 or 49 strands.

Pay attention to both measurements.

Note: It's the number of strands that determines price, not the diameter. 49 strand jewelry wire will be more expensive than 7 or 21 strand wire.

If you are stitching, then use a Fireline. Fireline is like Nymo, C or S Lon, etc except it is far less likely to fray when using crystals.

With the fishing line based products (FIreline, PowerPro, Micro Ice, etc) , you need to pay attention to both
1) the diameter (like .009) and
2) the strength (like 8 lb test).

The diameter will determine what size bead will fit. The strength or test will determine how much tension can be put on the product before it snaps or frays.

For Crystals, use at least 8 lb test (.009 diameter). If you use 4lb (.006) or 6 lb test (.008) , the line can still break as the sharp edges of the crystals cause the line to fray. (Trust me, I had the line snap when I first started because nobody explained the two measurements to me or the various uses of the products).

The Fireline 8 lb test can be used with both a 10 and 12 needle. Above that and it's difficult to get it through a size 12 needle.

Use the smoke for medium or dark crystals and the clear or frost for light. I have heard you can color the clear with a sharpie.

Hope this helps.

I've always had good luck with 7 strand 15# (Beadalon) wire. I was recently told by a jeweler that whenever Swar. crystals are used, it is best to use a Fireline made for crystals due to the sharpness of the glass. I've switched, using a Berkley product.

I always use medium soft flex wire

I find Fireline to be the best, and I use both Crystal and Smoke, depending on the Swarovski color. Have you tried the 2.5 mm 5301 bicones? They are tiny little sparkly wonders! Anyway, I digress. Fireline for bead weaving; beadalon for stringing.

Unless you are working with opaque crystals, you want to use something clear or reflective. For weaving projects I use Crystal Fireline. For heavier stringing projects I use silver or gold plated Beadalon multi-strand jewelry wire. Grey Fireline and brass or steel colored wire shows through light colored crystals and darkens or muddies medium to dark colors. When working with Swarovski crystals, you really want to show them off to their best advantage.

I feel that the only stringing material to use for crystal is Fireline. Others may fray or break in time . I find most of the experts agree with this also. You certainly don't want your project to fall apart after you took the time to make it.

You need to ask yourself if these are very high quality pearls, or pearls of great sentimental value. If the answer is "yes" to either, or both of these questions, then they should be on a knotted strand of silk or synthetic which will drape nicely. The purpose of knotting pearls is not just to prevent them from wearing off the nacre layer by rubbing against the next pearl, but also to prevent undue loss if the strand should break.
If, however, the pearls are not of great value to you, then you might do the following:
1. Choose a nylon coated stringing material, like Beadalon.
2.Use the diameter that will fit through the pearls. I cannot usually get a .018 diameter through pearls. I've had fair luck w/ .015 or less. Use the strongest strand that will fit your pearls.
3.Use very small beads, like delicas- size 10 or smaller, between the pearls in place of knots. This will help prevent the pearl's outer finish layer, the nacre, from wearing so much. It also looks nice and gives the appearance of knotting.
4.At each end of the strand, be sure to use a bead between the last pearl and the crimp. You do not want the pearls rubbing against metal elements.
Hope this helps.

Given that the pearls are very old, I'd be inclined to be traditional and string them on silk, knotted in between each pearl. Silk will deteriorate over time, but it is very strong, looks elegant, and drapes beautifully. It may require restringing every two years or so, depending on how often you wear your pearls. However, I've worn mine for ten years without incident.

If you don't want to use silk, I'd use a good quality nylon beading thread, and knot between each pearl. Use a bead tip to hide the knot at the end and attach the strand to the clasp.

I would investigate what the original stringing material was made of. Since it is a very old material that is in tact (aside from the mildew) I would try to find similar but better quality material. If they are real pearls I would be careful not to restring with any type of silk as silk will decay over time as well. I would use a fabric stringing material versus wire. If wire is a must I would use Beadalon.

You could use some nail polish or clear glue to stick the ends of the strands together, then, while still tacky, stick the ends together in a leather crimp, one for each side, before attaching to a clasp. Or, you could knot each end on both sides (6 altogether), use glue or polish again to hold the knots. Put each into a callotte and attach the three callottes to a jump ring and/or clasp on both ends. And there's always the triple strand end pieces to attach the callottes to if you want the strands to hang separately/at different lengths

You will end each strand with a bead tip, as you normally would with a single strand necklace on silk cord. (http://www.artbeads.com/how-to-use-a-bead-tip.html) From there, you have two options that you can choose from.

First, you can attach the bead tips to a multi strand end piece at each end of the necklace, and attach your clasp to the single loop on the other side of the end piece.

Multi strand end pieces:
http://www.artbeads.com/muen.html

Second, you can attach the bead tips to a multi strand clasp.

Multi strand clasps:
http://www.artbeads.com/multistrand-clasps.html

keep them in a protective bag or some where closed.

Best Glue I have found is E6000. It dries fast and holds really good especially on Cabochon stones! Works great for all jewelry though and it is inexpensive.

That is so subjective -- eye of the beholder and all that. My beading friend loves to combine greens, blues and red-orange, while I tend toward fall colors and my ubiquitous black/gray/white/red combination. Try just setting your selected beads next to each other to "test" the combo, then switch out beads/colors until you find a combination that grabs you. The possibilities are infinite! And there are no wrong answers. Just let your creative juices flow!

If you are having difficulty getting the ends of your open jump rings to align, we recommend taking a look at our Jump Ring Handy Tip video in our Learning Center. The video will take you step by step through the process of opening and closing jump rings and may assist you in perfecting the technique.

http://www.artbeads.com/jump-ring-ht-video.html

if you're trying to get 2 wires to pass through a very small hole, you may try 24g or 26g half-round wire. If you sort of press the flat sides of the wire together and feed it through your bead, it will fit as if it were a single piece of round wire.
Keep in mind that the thinner the wire you use, the weaker it is, and half-round wire of that gauge will work best if it's wrapped several times around something sturdier, such as a thicker round or square wire.