7 is the standard bracelet size. I usually make ones between 6-7.

Traditionally, bracelets have been either size 7 or size 8 inches. I'll make a bracelet in both sizes to accommodate more people. In my own circles, I am finding that size 7 is very common but size 8 tends to sell faster.

There is no standard bracelet size; the typical adult wrist will range anywhere from 6.5 inches to 9 inches. One way that you could ensure that your bracelet designs can be worn by a variety of people is to add an extender chain to the end of the bracelet. This will enable people with wider wrists to adjust the bracelet to a larger size.

You can view our extender chains on our website via the following link:

http://www.artbeads.com/silver-components-extenders.html
http://www.artbeads.com/gold-filled-necklace-extenders.html

When I made my glasses chain the first time, I used a crimp. It didn't hold up well - in fact, it broke right below the crimp (and I had doubled my nylon beading thread). My suggestions are:
(1) Use silver French wire (about 3/8 in.) in the area between the lower loop of the eyeglass holder and your beads. French wire is flexible, but the one draw back is that it can bend and lose its shape. (2) Use the smallest size silver wire or thread guard. I use wire guards on most projects unless I'm using more than two doubled strands of thread. (3) You can attach your chain to the loop with a seed bead loop - if you use 11/0 seed beads, you can get either clear beads or silver to go through the loops. The seed beads would look nice - you would probably need 8 to 10 beads to give a little room before adding on larger beads.

I agree with the Customer Service answer. And be sure to leave a bit of slack in the wire before crimping so that the eyeglass loop can move freely.
Lissa Atkins
Collingswood, NJ

You could thread all five wires into the clam shell and crimp them together. You would have to experiment to use the smallest crimp size that you could get away with and still be able to close the clam shell. It might just be easier to use a cone on both ends-cones are great for multi-strand necklaces!

I would Crimp the wires together and then clip all but one wire to 1/8 inch (make certain that the Crimp is very tight and won't pull out) I would then put the remaining wire through a cone and then use a clam-shell. Hopes this hels you. How were the wires attached on the other end?

I use jump rings around the pin and either crimp the wires directly to the jump ring and cover the crimps with a crimp cover, or end the wires or threads with a clamshell, then attach the clamshell to the jump rings.

If your bead holes are large enough, pass the stretchy cord through all the beads twice or three times before tying your knot. Then, be sure to use a strong, flexible glue (example: GS Hypo Cement) on the knot. Be sure to let it dry for the recommended amount of time before stretching out the cord afterwards. If your bead holes are not large enough to do this, try going through all the beads only once, but using a larger gauge stretchy cord (example: Use a 1mm or .8mm instead of a .5 mm stretchy cord.). Stretchy cord comes in several sizes. You might try using the Elasticity brand stretchy cord.

I use the stretchy cord and I hide my knot in a bead and put a dab of glue on both sides. Your bead will be the only one that doesn't move on the bracelent and you can't even tell unless you start moving each bead. Its a nice trick.

you could use the aluminum cuff bracelets.